For some, February marks the last stretch of winter. Spring is on the horizon, and with that leap forward comes the prospect of new trends and warmer temperatures. But if you can believe it, fashion veterans aren’t thinking about spring; they’re thinking even further ahead to next fall. We don’t prefer winter as much, as it’s the beginning of fashion month when designers worldwide show their fall/winter collections. While there’s no telling what trends will take off, following the runways can give clues about what’s coming. It’s why as editors, we spend the entire month devouring lookbooks, staring at street-style images, and running from show to show in Copenhagen and New York in search of what’s next. And while we’re still in the throws of fashion month (Paris and Milan’s fashion weeks are still to come), I feel one week has already set the tone for the season: menswear week. Admittedly, as a fashion editor primarily covering womenswear, following menswear week wasn’t always my top priority. But, as collections were released and two other cities’ fashion weeks concluded (and London is happening now), I’ve found that I can not stop thinking about menswear week. For me, it felt like designers were able to capture what many brands have failed to do as of late: meld function and fashion in a forward-thinking way. It wasn’t about sending oversized t-shirts down the runway and claiming they’re “androgynous” but instead using tailoring, styling, and accessories to push the envelope. The looks spotted in menswear collections, in my mind, will set the tone for the rest of the year. And to prove that point, I’ve rounded up eight trends from the Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collections worth knowing about and shopped them out in both departments. Keep scrolling to see what trends will define women’s and men’s fashion for the rest of the year.
The bomber jacket has always been lauded as a “universal” staple; a quick scroll through any of the recent collections can show that this isn’t the basic version we all can recall being big in the past. We first saw this coat reemerge in the F/W 2022 womenswear collections of Prada, Loewe, and Versace. And it seems that the style will stick around well into next fall if menswear designers have a say in the matter.
While more classic versions of this jacket were found in menswear F/W 23 collections, most iterations of this outerwear added a little edge to the silhouette. For example, Prada, Jordanluca, and Gucci made the jacket a bit more voluptuous through an almost puff-like shape. While Emporio Armani and Wales Bonner relied on using mixed-media fabrications to make the jacket style, feel fresh. And then, some designers used styling to make the bomber look bold—i.e., Givenchy layered a hoodie and flannel under a leather bomber jacket. In contrast, Juunn J layered two leather bombers over each other to nod to the excessive layering and heavy-duty leather trends we’ve seen play a prevalent role in womenswear collections over the past two seasons. Overall, every version of this outerwear spotted on the runway brought forth an exciting way to wear this jacket, no matter who you are.
Don’t be afraid to shop the menswear section to find a cool bomber jacket.
Add interesting layers to make this vegan leather bomber jacket pop.
Not a fan of pink? This affordable jacket also comes in beige, black, and khaki green.
The Frankie Shop’s outerwear always has that perfect oversized fit if you want to embody that “I stole this from my boyfriend look” without raiding their closet.
Color trends have played a prevalent role in womenswear collections over the past few seasons, and it seems that menswear isn’t immune to the movement. While some may recall when ultra-vibrant hues were all the rage, with S/S 23 womenswear collections and F/W 23 menswear collections, it’s a different story. It’s not that designers are ditching color; instead, it’s about them pivoting to be more intentional with how they use color in their work to tell a story. We’ve seen that pivot largely displayed both in womenswear and menswear collections through pivoting the actual colors featured in their work. There are fewer attention-grabbing tints (think: hot pink or kelly green), and instead, we see softer hues (i.e., ballet pink, aquamarine, and shades of purple). Beyond shifting the color wheel used in their collections, we also see a focus on styling—i.e.,vibrantly-hued pieces are styled with neutrals to tone them down, or color-blocking is used to break up a monochrome outfit.
The only significant difference we saw between the womenswear S/S 23 collections and menswear F/W 23 collections when it came to color-blocking was what pieces they used to do just that. Womenswear collections focused on accessories, while menswear used separates. Moreover, menswear designers used neutrals to juxtapose with whatever color they featured in their collections. For example, both Prada and Issey Miyake oned down a pair of kelly green trousers by pairing them with neutral-hued outerwear. At the same time, chocolate-brown outerwear was spiced up with the addition of winter staples like a saffron sweater (see: Wooyoungmi’s collection) or the addition of a skinny orange scarf and matching button-down (see: Marine Serre’s collection. And finally, we saw a head-to-toe navy outfit styled with an emerald-hued peacoat at Emporio Armani. Styling was an essential part of making these colors pop, and even the most muted pastels had a pop to them on the runway this season (see: Auralee and Ami Paris’s collections). Proving that you don’t have to wear the rainbow to have your outfit speak for you; you just have to pick a tint (or two) and let them do the talking.
If you’re going to wear color, you might as well wear Christopher John Rogers.
Dreaming of styling this pale pink blazer with a chocolate brown turtleneck peeking out.
Style this waistcoat with black trousers and a black blazer to make it really on-trend.
The beauty of buying a pair of pale blue trousers is that they pair well with so many different colors.
Anyone that’s been following womenswear trends over the past two seasons is likely no stranger to the re-emergence of the maxi-length hemline. From dresses to skirts to coats, F/W 22 and S/S 23 collections were filled with so much fabric it often grazed the floor. And while the maxi hemline may seem on the more “feminine” side, menswear F/W 23 collections proved that this silhouette is something anyone can wear (no matter how they identify on the spectrum). The most noteworthy adaptation of the maxi hemline spotted in menswear collections came in the form of a full-length coat.
Typically, the coats spotted in the menswear F/W 23 collections aired on the side of austere minimalism to not detract from the main focal point: the maxi hemline. So, we saw this approach on full display in the double-breasted wool coats in black and navy coats spotted in Saint Laurent, Fendi, and Lgn by Louis Gabriel Noguchi’s collections. If the outerwear did happen to come in a more “bold” fabrication, it was only in the form of a traditional print, classic fabric like leather, or subtle pastel shades (see: Dries Van Noten, Loewe, and Ami Paris’s collections). The result was a series of coats that let their sweeping lengths speak for themselves.
You can wear this wool coat with jeans or trousers on colder days and a dress or skirt on warmer days.
Banana Republic popped off with this one.
Ideal for transitional weather.
The two-tone element on this longline coat is too cool.
There are some staples that are essential to having a functional wardrobe, no matter what your sex—gloves very much fall into this categorization. While this cold-weather accessory has been around forever and is a universal must-have for anyone residing in cold climates, over the past few seasons, we’ve seen them take a more pivotal part in runway collections. Back in 2021, opera gloves first appeared in the womenswear collections of fashion houses like Prada and have remained around since. And while the accessory may have seemed like it was only having a moment among womenswear designers, F/W 23 menswear week proved otherwise. For them, It wasn’t about the functionality of this accessory as much as it was about using them to make a statement.
You can see that through how various designers used colorful leather gloves to juxtapose their runway looks (see: Givenchy, Feng Chen Wang, and Ernest W. Baker’s collections). While other designers used the gloves to highlight colors, they wanted to be the focal point of the look. For example, Emporio Armani paired a royal purple blazer with a matching briefcase and leather gloves, while Kenzo styled a plaid blazer and mini skirt with cobalt blue gloves. And then, Auralee used a belt to affix a pair of olive green gloves to a model’s waist so that they’d blend in with a handkerchief skirt. But possibly the most dramatic takes we saw around this accessory came in the form of elbow-length leather gloves. Louis Vuitton paired a crochet polo with matching purple leather gloves, while Lgn by Louis Gabriel Nouchi paired an oversized button-down styled as a dress with over-the-knee boots and long gloves. Each way we saw gloves styled on the runway showed that with some creative styling, this accessory can be cemented as something that’s the right fit for anyone looking to add a little flair to their fall wardrobes.
Pro tip: pair these gloves with a coat in a contrasting hue to make them stand out.
Style these with a black coat, and watch the compliments crawl in.
Now here’s a pair of gloves the girls and guys can daydream about.
The studs on these gloves are a fun touch.
Do you recall back in 2018 when Lenny Kravitz broke the internet because he was donning a massive scarf that grazed the ground? Because I sure do. While a lot of time has passed since then, one thing hasn’t changed: the relevance of the extra-long, blanket-like scarves. The cutural importance of this accessory may have been collectively seared into our brains thanks to Kravitz, but they’ve return to the chat because of fall/winter 2023 collections. It wasn’t just menswear week that we saw oversized scarves waft down the runway, they were a prevalent part of Copenhagen designer’s collections as well. But the main difference between the two all came down how dramatic the accessory was.
During menswear week, designers used patterns, colors, volume, and lengths to make this accessory stand out. For example, a single-breasted cobalt blue coat was styled with a black and white floral print scarf at Paul Smith. At the same time, Egonlab paired a hot pink peacoat with a black and navy blue striped scarf. If a designer wasn’t pairing a vibrant-hued jacket with a printed scarf, they relied upon hues and volume to add a touch of drama. At Auralee, an olive-green coat was spiced up with a voluminous aquamarine scarf, while at Officine Generale, a beige jacket was styled with an oversized dove-gray scarf. And lastly, we saw the most exaggerated takes on this trend in Mihara Yasuhiro’s F/W 23 collection—chunky hand-knitted scarves dragged on the floor behind women and men on the runway. While all the ways these scarves showed up on the runway were different, there’s no denying the effect that the original Kravitz look had and will continue to have well into the future.
So cozy.
Please stop scrolling for a second to admire the contrast stitching on this scarf.
This scarf comes in gray and camel too.
You’ll wear this all the time.
One could argue that risqué trends have become run-of-the mill over the last few seasons. In womenswear we’ve seen everything from microhemlines to excessive cutouts, making the mere motion of showing skin passé. And yet, with the introduction of F/W 23 menswear collections we were given a fresh perspective on sultry styles, thanks to the the wide use of ultra-sheer materials. Of course, we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention that opaque pieces first emerged in the womenswear SS/23 collections. But, seeing menswear designers take to see-through separates dialed up the heat in a way we haven’t seen before.
It wasn’t about being crass but rather about using ultra-fine pieces to create a smoke-and-mirrors situation where the skin was visible but still covered. You can see that through how gauzy knits were styled with slacks at Fendi and Dries Van Noten. Or how chiffon was draped to create a blouse-like feel on male models at Saint Laurent and Lgn by Louis Gabriel Nouchi. And then, there were translucent button-downs at Gucci and Bode. But possibly the sultriest versions of this trend were when longline coats were layered over sheer shirts creating the perfect peek-a-boo effect (see: Ami Paris and Lgn by Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s collections). While the trend may seem surprising initially, especially in menswear collections, it shows its inherent universality and wearability across genders. After all, what other trends can you imagine both Dua Lipa and Timothée Chalamet wearing? It’s undoubtedly going to be one of the hottest trends this year.
Not only is this bodysuit an easy way to adopt the opaque-look easily, but it comes in seven other colorways.
How pretty is this sheer slip skirt though?
Another way you can opt into this trend without barring it all is by finding sheer outerwear pieces that can be layered on top of whatever you’re wearing.
Obsessed with how this sheer lace dress is styled over pants.
Did you think see-through fabrics would be the boldest trend of F/W 23 menswear collections? Think again. We saw designers challenge gender norms through the wide adoption of one specific “feminine” separate: skirts. While men wearing skirts isn’t necessarily a new concept (historically speaking, men wore the garment hundreds of years ago with ire from trolls on the internet), we’ve seen more men donning them. From Billy Porter to Oscar Isaac, Robert Patterson, and Lil Nas X, a slew of celebrities donned skirts on and off the red carpet. And while the trend at first seemed to only resonate with the celeb set, F/W23 collections cemented the bottom as genderless staple.
It wasn’t one specific type of skirt style that stood out as the season’s silhouette, as much as it was the concept of men wearing them in general. For instance, Dior sent a few male models down the runway in wool bubble hem skirts. While at Rick Owens and Hed Mayner, sleek knee-length skirts replicated the feel of a pencil skirt without being overly fitted. If designers didn’t want the skirt to feel too frilly, they relied on styling and fabrications to make them more approachable. For example, we saw skirts layered over pants at Givenchy and Marine Serre. While at Courrèges and Jordanluca, we saw the usage of unique fabrications (i.e., recycled sweatshirts and vinyl) to make the skirt feel more “masculine.” Overall, each iteration of this bottom on the runway proved that skirting gender norms is oh-so-stylish and here to stay.
Pleated skirts are a universal skirt style in my eyes.
Cargo-inspired skirts also feel very androgynous.
It’s giving Dior energy, but for less.
Imagine this skirt styled over jeans on a man or woman—very cool, right?
If you’ve made it to the end of this story, you’ve hopefully gleaned by now that there were so many noteworthy trends found in the fall/winter 2023 menswear collections that lend themselves to being influential within the men’s and women’s fashion realm for the rest of the year. But if you’re still at a loss for how these collections can be applied to how you approach your own wardrobe, then allow me to introduce you to the last trend: unconventional layering. You might recall when womenswear collections in F/W 22, first began showing looks that featured overly, often excessively, layered-on pieces. In a way, this menswear trend is a relative cousin of that but a bit cooler. It’s not about adding on an obscene amount of layers but rather using what you do add on to create visual intrigue.
Some designers used layers to accentuate the silhouettes they wanted to highlight. For example, a slate-gray blazer was tied at the waist with another blazer at Louis Vuitton. While Hérmes made the collar on a button-down the focal point of the look by styling a short-sleeve sweater over it. At the same time, a knit bralette was styled over a sweater, and a sweatshirt was tied on top of a knit skirt at Auralee. While other designers really just stacked on the layers to make the looks feel cooler. I’m thinking of how Givenchy styled multiple t-shirts over a sweatshirt and then added a leather vest. Or how Junn. K styled a bomber jacket on top of a hoodie and underneath a longline coat, and Kolor layered skirts over trousers for men’s and women’s runway looks. But possibly the most unconventional take on layering seen in menswear collections was through the pieces you’d think of as “under layers” styled on top of outerwear. That manifested in how multiple brightly-hued cardigans were layered over (not under) a blazer at Botter. While at Martine Rose, that meant styling an oversized sweater vest on top of a pinstripe blazer. While they were combinations that deviated from the norm by every standard, they were a great reminder that everything always comes back to styling. Anyone can wear a sheer top or embrace a trend from the opposite side of the aisle; you just have to be willing to break conventions. And if you do have the courage to do so, you might strike outfit gold.
Take a cue from Martine Rose’s F/W 23 collection and try styling an oversized sweater vest from the men’s section over a blazer.
Style this over a pair of pants to really lean-into the layered look.
This double-layer tank gives off the illusion of excessive layering without the extra work.
If you can’t pull off layering multiple pieces over each other, then opting for a single piece with a double-waist band (like these jeans) is the perfect way to play into the unconventional layering trend.
