Brittany Bathgate wears the Cecilie Bahsen plissé dress. It’s high empire waistline and bubble skirt has become a cult reference in the fashion space.
SS23 catwalks clung to the sentiment of shrunken hemlines and models ushered down the runway in larger-than-life babydoll dresses, in the wake of the micro miniskirt. Cecilie Bahnsen and Simone Rocha were some of the designers to produce whimsical minis with pronounced silhouettes and taffeta aplenty.
The babydoll dress was coined in 1956, courtesy of Elia Kazan’s Baybydoll, where we were first introduced to the cotton-rich flounced nightgown, swiftly followed by Balenciaga couture and styles of the swinging ‘60s. It’s since evolved to the versions we’re familiar with today. 2023’s iterations are full and vibrant, with layers of organza, tulle and circle skirts.
Typically, babydoll dresses are defined by a pinched empire waistline, full-skirted smock element and a raised hem, however, some designers have introduced modern elements and play on longer lengths and proportions. When I think about babydoll designs with a modern lilt, I refer to Molly Goddard’s dresses which are usually favoured in costume design and formal events. Her styles are playful and evoke the essence of dressing. I can’t help but think of Abercrombie and Fitch’s viral summer dress last year, with the full-skirted component and lowered waistline. The mini shirred dress also bears a likeness, as the tautness of an elasticated waist encourages a full skirt.
Selkie, Molly Goddard and Cecilie Bahnsen are brands that have specialised in babydoll dresses long before its reclaim, with styles that convey whimsicality for the modern woman.
We’re in the midst of significant pop culture moments that have inspired ‘more is more’ dressing, from the Barbie reboot to Disney’s Live-Action The Little Mermaid, inspiring the ‘Mermaidcore’ and ‘Barbiecore’ phenomenon, and I’m certain the era of dressing up has only just begun.
Keep scrolling to see my edit of the best babydoll dresses for summer. There’s something for lovers of saturated hues, minimalists and a few wild cards thrown in for good measure.
Selkie is renowned for producing exaggerated silhouettes in whimsical prints. As demonstrated by Marilyn, pair bold styles with classic accessories for the ultimate party look.
Why not opt for a babydoll dress in a relaxed fabrication? Rachael shows how you can transcend this typically bold style into looks for everyday wear when you take fabrications into account.
The empire waistline and light cotton voile have a touch of Victoriana about it, albeit slightly modern due to the short hem.
You can’t have a babydoll dress edit without featuring the likes ofCecile Bahnsen and its iconic cloud-like silhouettes. From weddings to date nights, you’re guaranteed the whittled down cost-per-wear element with this investment.
Aje creates stand-out occasionwear pieces but some of their styles can transcend to everyday wear. This powder pink mini features a deep V-neck and empire waistline, bringing a fresh twist to the squared-off necklines most reminiscent of babydoll dresses.
The overstated sleeves and organza overlay loan this style an elevated appeal. It’s a piece you can wear to formal events and casual days (if you’re one for overdressing, like me).
Staud dresses are exceptional and while known for fuller lengths its minis are just as special.
I adore the transparent sleeve detail and tiered lengths.
The elasticated bodice and accentuated skirt is this season’s take on the babydoll dress for those who prefer frocks with added length.
Kika Vargas’ eponymous label was born out of her love of dressing up, so her styles are bold and playful.
The bardot neckline isn’t typical for the babydoll silhouette but it’s a great match.
Selkie is a size-inclusive brand best known for its puffed mini dresses that lend a whimsical approach to occasion wear dressing.
As far as babydoll dresses are concerned, this offering is slightly relaxed as compared to the typical styles. However, the streamlined fit with the slightly fluted skirt makes it wearable for off-duty summer days.
Such a lovely colour.
The latest piece in my collection and indeed a foray into minis. I’m planning on wearing my dress for summer days in the city and holidays, alike. The delicate trim and shirred bodice speak to jolly forecasts.
Babydoll dresses tend to come in mini iterations but Naya Rae grants us a knee-length frock in the freshest sunny hue, with bunched sleeves, no less.
A fuss-free but chic style to wear during the hottest temperatures.
You’ll reach for this easy-to-wear dress on the hottest summer days — trust me.
Picture this with raffia accessories in the south of France.
No one does shirring and accentuated waistlines better than the Aussie brand, Matteau.
New in at COS — a full-skirted midi dress with a shrunken bodice. It looks so premium.
Another style by Cecile Bahnsen, the forerunners of puffed dresses. The Mabel dress comprises an organza overlay with a transparent floral design.
The tiered skirting element makes this Evarae piece a worthwhile contender for sun-filled days ahead. It’s a relaxed, easy-wearing version of the babydoll trend.
Palm Noosa adhere playful prints to both long and short-skirted styles, so there’s something for all tastes.
One for the print lovers.
A shirred bardot with a full-skirted silhouette.
Shushu Tong offers a structural design and a tapered corset style with an off-the-shoulder element.
A sweet frock with many admirable design features, including a visible cotton underlay, ruched shoulders and embroidered florals. It’s also currently on sale.
Zepherina specialises in full short-skirted dresses. The contrasting sleeves in this design further complement the silhouette.
