Given the perplexing forecast this year, we’re already hot on the heels of Autumn at Who What Wear. The change of seasons is afoot and autumnal dress trends have begun to dominate prematurely. An influx of our favourite ready-to-wear pieces from February’s catwalk have been landing on luxury retailers and inspired the high street, alike. Like the micro mini was for Spring/Summer 2022, dresses spearheaded 2023’s autumn/winter runway. As a dedicated lover of frocks, it’s cause for celebration and an invitation to carry pin-bearing styles forth, give or take some seasonal adjustments.
Dress offerings of autumn/winter 2023 were nothing short of inspirational. They were unapologetically baroque and a variety of styles were forecast. Designs showcased comprised jewelled tones, feather adornments, gauzy fabrications and fabric in excess (to name but a few). Styles of designers from Christopher Kane to Chanel ushered down the runway in elongated proportions, sheer fabrications and partywear-inspired looks to bookmark for (dare I say it) end-of-year celebrations.
Following the sentiment of ‘more is more’ dressing and the introduction of bulbous floral appliques last season, autumn dress trends have transitioned to styles of a similar ilk but with darker hues and autumn-appropriate fabrications.
Main character dressing has inspired an influx of avant-garde and wonderfully lurid styles. Adornments have become the protagonist of dressing and an appreciation of flowers (we mustn’t forget Loewe or Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s anthurium tributes in the spring) has preserved and paved the way for myriad adornments. Florals have been joined by ‘20s style feather gowns, ruffles, peplum, and frothy tulle, courtesy of Zimmerman and Paul & Joe, to name but a few.
For years running, designers continue to revert to noughties heroes (read; the ‘90s slip dress), proving the longstanding appeal of Y2K-inspired fashion, though this year it boasts a mature and refined feel that lovers of classic styles can appreciate. I’ve assessed the autumn 2023s dress trends to bring you nine styles that are guaranteed to inspire this autumn. Keep reading to discover the dress trends that will be dominating fashion in the upcoming seasons.
It’s no secret that designers favour the effects of lustrous fibres. An adoration for silk, satin and sumptuously soft fabrications has infiltrated the seasons and autumn 2023 has inspired a wave of cocooned and swathed iterations of former bias cuts. The more fabric, the better.
“I’ve always been a floral dress girl, but traditionally the print is—at least in my wardrobe—reserved for summer. This season, however, I will be introducing grungy, moodier iterations of my favourite pattern into my cold-weather repertoire. Whether that’s via a midi dress paired with black knee-high boots and leather details or a mini worn with barely-there heels. Some of the standout moments for the trend on the A/W23 runways include modest, roll-neck dresses in New York courtesy of Veronica Beard, and free-flowing gowns in London from Paul & Joe.” — Poppy Nash, Managing Editor
Make way for Grecian-inspired wrapped designs and cocooned shaping. Bandeau necklines were a hit this summer and its prevalence continues. Autumnal offerings come complete with longer sleeves and generous swathes of fabric.
“Ruching is the Y2K trend I never thought I’d see again, but low and behold for 2023 it’s suddenly everywhere once more… and I kind of love it. On dresses, it feels like a natural progression from the second-skin column dresses we saw everywhere last year, thanks to Loewe. The addition of draped details this year, though, feels much more flattering and, to be honest, interesting. I love how designers (and the high street) are getting imaginative with their ruched designs for autumn 2023, and I certainly plan on investing in this trend that feels both modern and classic.” — Emily Dawes, Shopping Editor
Cold weather seasons call for design features that veer towards the exuberance of party season. Feather trims, corsages, sequins and taffeta are some of the details highlighted by designers, which all come under the adornments umbrella of adornments. Chanel, Zimmerman and Burberry showcased these styles of design on the Autumn Winter 2023 catwalk. We mustn’t forget Noir Kei Ninomiya’s offerings which evoke the entire ‘more is more’ sentiment.
Designers agree that lingerie is far too precious to be disguised. Behind closed doors lingerie has been transformed into floor-length gowns with the most delicate appliqué threadwork. Armani, Alexander Wang and Bally are a few of many that have backed this trend.
The season for organza, tulle and netted overlays is fast approaching and for autumn 2023, designers including Miu Miu, Gucci, and Christian Siriano are embracing sheer elements.
“Okay, it might not be for everyone, but there is something about the risqué allure of the sheer dress that has been shaking up the runways for the last couple of years, and I’m wholeheartedly on board. Granted, it isn’t a dress for running errands, but you can’t beat the head-turning prowess of the barely-there evening dress, and everyone from brides to influencers are turning to see-through styles, for a look that stands out from the crowd. Whether you step into Nensi Dojaka-esque slips or pile on frothy layers of tulle a la Molly Goddard, the sheer dress is an expression of self-love and unashamed confidence. And who doesn’t want to subscribe to that?” — Remy Farrell, Shopping Editor
The ’50s babydoll dress has been thrust into the limelight, this time with a modern lilt. It’s now a reimagined style with a ‘grown-up’ appeal — part whimsical aesthetic, and part formal. We owe this to the longline bustiers with drop waist features. It’s a ballerina frock for the modern woman that oozes ‘joie de vivre’, and boasts a nostalgic appeal.
“Ever since I invested in a full-skirted dress style from Esse Studios last year, I haven’t wanted to wear anything but this silhouette! It works for my hourglass figure to have something that fits at the waist and is swishy around the hips and thighs. It’s romantic, but you can keep things minimalist and chic by opting in for block colours, elevated fabrics and styles with very few frills or adornments.” — Hannah Almassi, Editor in Chief
Camel colourways are often associated with functionality (overcoats and knitwear, for example) but a number of 2023’s iterations boast an elevated and directional appeal — from peek-a-boo gapes to thigh-high splits, A/W 2023 catwalks demonstrated the myriad ways to elevate sepia-toned knits.
Next Up: Experts Agree: These Autumn/Winter 2023 Fashion Trends Really Count