Having analysed the spring/summer 2024 fashion trends for literal months now, I’m here to tell you about the ones that are genuinely wearable and will truly affect your wardrobe for the next six months (and beyond if I have anything to do with it). This, however, hasn’t always been the catwalk way. If all the world’s a stage, Fashion Month has long been the costume cupboard—a trove of froth and tulle, sparkle and glitter designed to catch the eye and hold it. A dress-up box that, although delightful and entertaining to lose yourself in, doesn’t always hold up in reality. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing—we could all use some fabulous escapism from time to time—but, ultimately, when you venture out from the sanctity of your closet, you need to be able to live in these creations. At least in the physical realm—we’ll get into the virtual later. For spring/summer 2024, I have to applaud designers for creating collections which, yes, hold beauty, but also have a place in the everyday. But first, let’s travel back to September and October of last year and reflect on how things unfolded.
Across the four fashion capitals—New York, London, Milan and Paris—a total of 299 designers showcased their collections, 19 of which are new to the Fashion Month circuit, compared to 247 for spring/summer 2023. Credit to the fashion data analysts at Tagwalk for doing these calculations. Growth is a good thing, especially in creative industries, but, personally, I found this hard to believe. Off the top of my head I can think of a handful of designers whom couldn’t secure budget to show or whose brands were lost to greater financial struggles (I still can’t move on from the Christopher Kane-shaped hole that permeated the London schedule). With growth always comes change, and perhaps one of the biggest changes this season came in the form of an renunciation. Alexander McQueen’s creative director, Sarah Burton, announced that its spring/summer 2024 collection would be her last after 26 years at the brand. Burton had respectfully taken the helm after the British institution’s iconic and groundbreaking founder, Lee McQueen, passed away in 2010, with her subsequent collections serving as a love letter to his influence and precociousness. Cate Blanchett attended, Naomi Campbell walked, and a standing ovation rang out during the final, tender moments of Paris Fashion Week.
Milan witnessed a big change, too. Gucci’s new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they likely would have told you they’d give away their Birkins to have a front-row seat at this show.
There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor, Alessandro Michele, put Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the of the industry.
A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta fast if you so much as peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia, and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style while remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director, Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has had a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.
The spring/summer 2024 showcase was set against an uncertain economic and political backdrop, which may have led many designers to approach their collections with extra consideration. The customer has become more mindful, too: Further aware of their own consumption and the downright privilege it is to be a consumer right now. Yes, there will always be an appetite to shop, but there is a deliberate attempt to be less ostentatious about it (read: there will be a lot less logos this season). Of the trends, there were many that carried on from previous seasons, not just last. In addition to what Page has observed, from the palette to the prints down to finer details such as jewellery, big bags and ballet flats, it felt like we’d seen much of it all before but with a renewed appeal. No big leaps were made, which is good in terms of our bank balances and wardrobes, and our editors were able to see themselves actually wearing much of what they saw as they go about their lives. Let’s hear it for the wide-leg trousers!
The more directional trends we did see were there to spark joy at a time where it felt like it might have been in short supply. There was a celebration of colour this season, which could have quite easily taken over this entire trend report. Red continues to dominate, with Hermès’s designs acting as a stoic antithesis to the candy-pop looks that lined Versace, Prada and Eudon Choi. There was shimmer but with a shakeup—silhouettes are stronger and the overall sweetness being distilled. Florals, for spring? They’ll never be groundbreaking, but! With seismic petal proportions and blooms that jump off the toile, there’s new life to be found in the trend that we assumed we’d seen everything from.
“As someone who is self-diagnosed ‘chronically online’, I’ve seen a lot of flash-in-the-pan trends over the last few seasons,” says Elinor Block, editorial lead at luxury fashion gaming company, Drest, which enables its users to create infinite outfit possibilities in the metaverse. “The past year we saw Barbiecore, Blokecore and Tomato Girl Summer emerge as some of the bigger zeitgeisty aesthetics adopted by Gen Z and the TikTok crowd. And while some are rooted in major trends, when it comes to real life, there’s no doubt that longevity and items that work season after season is a bigger draw. When playing with clothes in Drest, however, there’s definitely a different kind of approach I take to dressing. The virtual world allows me to style looks that I might not have considered before with more out-there pieces from high-octane brands such as David Koma or Balmain—I haven’t been able to stop thinking about that cherry red rose-covered dress that I spied on the S/S 24 runway. It gives me a chance to be more experimental and see how I can move that into my IRL wardrobe without taking too much of a risk.” This, dear reader, is what the modern-day dressing-up box looks like.
As always, any piece you invest in, be it inspired by the below or otherwise, should only be purchased if you intend on keeping it in your wardrobe for a very, very long time—that goes for your avatar, too! I’ve gone lengths to cherrypick the ones that have a chance. So, without further ado, keep reading for the the rundown of the most important spring/summer 2024 fashion trends as told by the experts, including some of Who What Wear’s own editor talent.