Sure, there are plenty of style insiders we look to for insights about where fashion is headed, but there a select few who have a hand in carving out that path themselves. Among them, Lauren Santo Domingo: Co-Founder of Moda Operandi and arbiter of all things chic. The New York City-based fashion entrepreneur is a fixture on the front row at fashion week and is dialed into what modern women want to wear.
Santo Domingo is also tapped into what customers are shopping for in the upcoming season before the pieces hit the virtual shelves. Moda Operandi offers preorder straight off the of the runways, so their team has hard data about the biggest sales-drivers long before they actually ship. With that insight at hand and the most memorable F/W 22 runway looks still fresh in her mind, I asked Santo Domingo to weigh in about the biggest fall trends to know about in the upcoming season and the exact pieces to buy into. Ahead, get an early look at 5 trends that are set to be huge this fall.
According to Lauren Santo Domingo: “My level of formality has definitely relaxed during lockdown and I’m not rushing back into high heels and shift dresses for day time anytime soon. However, I still enjoy getting dressed up for the office or appointments—or yes, dare I say it, school runs. The Runway Report’s data proves that our Moda client is equally as tired of dressing for Zoom. Fall’s suiting is a bit more tailored than we’ve seen in the past few seasons—Carolina Herrera’s perfect cigarette pant was a winner, as were Brandon Maxwell’s immaculately-cut jackets. I’m also finding myself reaching for a kitten heel where I used to always choose a flat for day. My go-to though is High Sport’s kick pant, which broke records when they debuted in the F/W 22 trunkshows. They combine the cut of a polished trouser with the comfort of a legging—this is as close as I will ever slide back into loungewear.” According to Moda Operandi data: The luxury customer is on the hunt for elevated daywear, but she is not ready to give up the comfort that she has become accustomed to. High Sport’s signature kick pant was our #1 seller by total units sold and total customers shopped—solidifying its status as the undisputed cult hit of the season. Our client is eager to embrace her former lifestyle. In the realm of tailoring, she’s spending, on average, $2,024 per item (a 67% increase from last year)—with trousers and blazers up 78% and 84%, respectively.
According to Lauren Santo Domingo: “I’ve always been a bit of a magpie, and F/W 22 has no shortage of options for fellow sparkle and shine enthusiasts. Whether mermaid-inspired paillettes at Altuzarra, major crystal embellishments at David Koma, or Wes Gordon’s daytime take on sequins at Herrera, there’s something for everyone and every occasion. Breakout Moda favorite Des_Phemmes’ got the styling of the trend just right, pairing heavy metal slip skirts with casual tees.” According to Moda Operandi data: Sales of sequins and crystals are up 351% to last year. Des_Phemmes has proven to be a firm customer favorite, coming in as the #2 brand driver for all first-time Trunkshow orders. Breakout hits from the Trunkshow included the Embroidered Velvet Mini Skirt (the top seller this season), the Strapless Mini Dress, the Crushed Velvet Maxi, and the Purple Paillette Car Coat.
According to Lauren Santo Domingo: “Gloves started to feel modern—with a nod to Bonfire of the Vanities—to me last year, when I commissioned my tailor Christy Rilling to make a column dress with a matching pair for the Met’s Acquisitions dinner. There must have been something in the air (call it collective consciousness) because they ended up walking just about every runway in February. We received endless special order requests for those illustrious ‘for styling only’ sets that weren’t available in Trunkshows, and those that were actually available for purchase sold incredibly well. I love the idea of having a pair match your dress exactly, but it’s also chic to do a sheer embellished glove like Alex Perry’s with a simple dress in lieu of jewelry. I don’t see this trend slowing down anytime soon—they were in all of the Couture collections and are continuing to break sales numbers in the Resort 23 Trunkshows that are on site now.”. According to Moda Operandi data: Sales volume of gloves rose 2872% compared to last fall/winter—and we’re not talking about your average winter mittens. Small yet mighty finishing touches are often the most exciting part of getting dressed up.Once viewed as old fashioned or costume-y, gloves have emerged as an edgy, avant-garde evening styling tool. Gloves were seen on virtually every designer’s runway, and the Moda client was on board: sales were up 343% to last Fall / Winter, with Valentino’s taking home the crown as top seller, followed closely behind by styles from Emilia Wickstead, Simone Rocha, Erdem, and Jil Sander.
According to Lauren Santo Domingo: “After several seasons where designers played it safe in the face of so much uncertainty in the world, it was a joy to see the return of fabulous gowns on the runway. Once our clients have Save the Dates for destination weddings and galas in hand, they know it’s time to place their preorders. There were fantastic options in just about every collection, but some personal favorites (and top sellers) included Wes Gordon’s ‘80s-inspired tulle gowns for Carolina Herrera, Halpern’s ombré fringe dress ideal for an art gala, and, of course, everything in Valentino’s ‘PP’ pink.”. According to Moda Operandi data: Eveningwear sales are up 200% year-over-year, with spend per item up 33%. Priced at $21,990, Carolina Herrera’s Strapless Silk Gown embroidered with a bow motif took the top spot, followed by Valentino’s Pink PP Off-The-Shoulder Silk Chiffon Gown (which closed the show), Oscar de la Renta’s Velvet Bustier Gown, Giambattista Valli’s Off-The-Shoulder Georgette Tulle Dress, and Halpern’s Ombré Fringed Gown.
According to Lauren Santo Domingo: “I have sworn off fur for good and Moda’s policy is the same. Over the past few years, many of the top designers we work with have pledged to go fur-free, and fall had a wealth of coats that make a simple outfit suddenly feel new again: Michael Kors, Tom Ford, Stella McCartney and Des_Phemmes all put out winners. Danish brand By Malene Birger does some of the best—and at a great price point. I was lucky enough to wear their ‘Kavela’ sample during the (snowy) New York shows, and it is absolutely incredible. I stayed so warm, I had to preorder it. Here’s to hoping outdoor dining is here to stay, so I can keep one on all through dinner.”. According to Moda Opernadi data: Sales on outerwear are up 66% from last year—and boast more specialty, with each unit sold costing an average of 38% more. Top trends include faux fur—which rose 30% in sales versus last Fall / Winter season—and printed pieces, which are up 366% in sales to last year, making up 26% of sales in the category compared to last year’s 9%. By Malene Birger’s Kavela Faux Fur Coat drove the most units sold in the outerwear category and came in as the #2 unit driver of the season. The coat was worn by Lauren Santo Domingo on a snowy day during New York Fashion Week shortly after its debut on the catwalk in Copenhagen. LSD’s look was among the top 10 best-performing Instagram posts of the season. Another faux-fur favorite came courtesy of cruelty-free, eco pioneer Stella McCartney, whose Fur-Free Wool-Blend Coat was the #2 top seller in pieces from new-to-Trunkshow brands.
