If you’ve ever struggled with cystic acne, you know the feeling: one day, a spot on your face starts feeling extra tender, and the feeling gets worse and worse until you find yourself with a noticeable (and big) bump under your skin. Cystic acne isn’t like regular acne—it lives under your skin’s surface, and it typically doesn’t come to a head, which is why you may have also heard people call acne cysts “blind pimples.”
The other annoying thing about cystic acne is that it’s extremely hard to get rid of, and it can also leave scars fairly easily. This is where it’s a good idea to have products that are equipped to help you deal with these pesky pimples before they even start, and help heal them quickly if they’re already there.
The first step to combat cystic acne should be to find a good cleanser. “In some cases, cleansers can actually help treat acne,” says Dr. Josh Zeichner, Associate Professor of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. “Ingredients like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are effective in treating acne when they are included in cleanser formulations.” Salicylic acid is a form of beta-hydroxy acid that clears oil and dries acne, while benzoyl peroxide helps calm inflammation and reduce levels of acne-causing bacteria on the skin.
According to Renée Rouleau, Celebrity Esthetician and Skin Care Expert, you should also look for a pH-balanced cleanser that will keep your skin barrier intact (skin is naturally slightly acidic, for reference). She also recommends looking for ingredients like tea tree oil for its antibacterial properties, glycerin for soothing, lactic acid for exfoliating, and kaolin, “a mineral clay to reduce oiliness on skin’s surface.”
When you’re using a cleanser to treat acne, Zeichner says you should take special care while washing your face. “Rather than using it as a traditional cleanser, think of it instead as a short contact therapy,” he says. “It needs enough time on the skin for the active ingredient to penetrate and do its job. I tell my patients to lather the product onto the skin and let it sit while you sing the alphabet before rinsing off.”
Unfortunately, like most types of acne, cystic acne requires a holistic approach rather than a one-stop solution. Zeichner says that if you continue to experience breakouts after adding in a targeted cleanser, it’s time to consider adding in an acne treatment too.
“Use exfoliating products three times a week and avoid drying spot treatments that can dry out the surface of the skin, trapping bacteria deep within the skin and preventing actives in products from getting to work,” says Rouleau. Be sure to avoid touching or picking at your face, as this can spread bacteria or make cystic acne worse.
