People typically don’t want dark spots on their skin, but hyperpigmentation is an extremely common issue. These spots can happen for so many reasons, whether they’re from acne scars, sun damage, or aging. If you’ve dealt with hyperpigmentation before, you know how frustrating it can be (and how it seems like you might have to live with it forever).
Hyperpigmentation might seem like a lost cause, but luckily, there are ingredients out there that can help you treat it, such as kojic acid, a superstar acid that helps fade and prevent hyperpigmentation. We caught up with dermatologists to get the lowdown on all things kojic acid so that you can feel a little more confident in your fight against hyperpigmentation.
“Kojic acid is made up of multiple different fungi,” says Jeannette Graf, board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine. “It is a byproduct of certain types of mushrooms and fermented foods like rice wine, kimchi, and Japanese sake. Kojic acid inhibits tyrosinase, which is the melanin-forming enzyme.”
In beauty products, kojic acid works as a lightening agent. “Because kojic acid inhibits tyrosinase, it can be used to lighten unwanted hyperpigmentation,” says Karen Chinonso Kagha, MD, board-certified dermatologist and Harvard-trained cosmetic and laser expert.
Aside from helping hyperpigmentation, there are plenty of other benefits to kojic acid. “The pure form of the acid can be combined with other serums and moisturizers to increase its absorbency into the skin,” says Graf. “It can be used to lighten visible aging spots, sun damage, and certain scars.” It can also help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and under-eye bags.
Anyone can use kojic acid, and it’s safe for all skin tones. Kagha says that kojic acid is best for people with hyperpigmentation or melasma.
You should err on the side of caution if you have more sensitive skin. “If your skin is very sensitive, then the use of kojic acid can lead to skin irritation and rashes,” says Graf. You should also avoid kojic acid if you’re pregnant.
If you want to mix kojic acid into your skincare routine, it’s best to find a kojic acid–infused product, as it’s too strong to use alone. You can combine it with other skincare products, so it’s easy to add to your routine. “Depending on the concentration of the kojic acid product, it should be used one to two times a day in your skincare routine,” says Graf.