A face cleanser or wash is the one thing that just about everyone has in their skincare routine, whether they have a 15-step ritual or use just a couple of products. On a basic level, face washes and cleansers do just what you think they’re supposed to do—remove impurities like dirt, oil, and makeup from the skin. Board-certified dermatologist and Docent medical advisor Farhaad Riyaz, MD, says that they pave the way for your other skincare products to work more effectively.
But let’s get into the details, shall we? To start, face washes and cleansers are not quite interchangeable. (I know—I thought they were the same too.) “Face washes are more targeted to deeply cleanse pores and are usually better options for oily skin, while face cleansers can have hydrating benefits,” explains Kathleen S. Viscusi, MD, FAAD, FACMS, co-founder and partner at Dermatology and Surgery Specialists of North Atlanta (DESSNA). “Face washes are more soap-like, and face cleansers are milkier.”
When it comes to choosing a face wash or a cleanser, it’s important to keep your skin type in mind. Product formulations have different ingredients, and some are better suited for certain types than others. “My oiler, acne-prone patients reach for foaming facial cleansers because they love the squeaky-clean feeling they get after washing,” says Lian Mack, MD. “However, using an aggressively foaming facial wash when you have sensitive or inflamed skin can worsen the skin condition by causing dryness and irritation. Moreover, many facial washes may have other irritating active ingredients, including exfoliants like alpha and beta hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, or salicylic acid. These ingredients may cause irritation in a more sensitive skin type. Sensitive-skinned patients should reach for gentle cleansers that help to reinforce the skin barrier, not break it down.”
So how do you know which are better for your specific skin needs? The experts shared some general guidelines below plus some shopping recs.
“Those with ‘normal’ skin have the luxury of being able to use any type of cleanser they prefer,” Riyaz explains. “However, it is still important to refrain from drying sulfates or mineral oil–based formulas for optimal hydration and age prevention. Docent (which is currently only available in California) offers a Gentle Wash, which is mineral oil– and sulfate-free and specially formulated for all skin types.”
Viscusi recommends looking for gentle or nourishing ingredients like amino acids, ceramides, and gentle botanical blends.
Riyaz says that combination skin (usually an oily T-zone and drier cheeks) needs a cleanser that controls oil, balances the T-zone, and hydrates drier areas. “I recommend sticking with a lighter cleanser option such as a gel or creamy cleanser,” Viscusi adds. “I find that they effectively target oil production without overly stripping the skin of moisture.”
Viscusi recommends a salicylic acid–based cleanser for people with oily and/or acne-prone skin. “Salicylic acid is the gold standard for treating blackheads, whiteheads, and excess oil,” she explains. “It’s known to prevent breakouts by exfoliating the skin and also help soothe active breakouts due to its anti-inflammatory properties.”
“Creamy, gentle cleansers are best for dry skin, as they will not strip oils and will keep skin from drying out,” Fernandez says. “It can be nice to do gentle exfoliation with dry skin too, as the buildup can prevent oils from getting in and out (which feels dry but not clean).”
“Mature skin is thinner and needs products to be especially free of harsh chemicals or fragrances,” Fernandez says. “But to brighten and revive mature skin, you may need to use a cleanser with some punch—medical grade is best to have maximum power with no irritating by-products.” Viscusi also recommends looking for gentle, moisturizing cleansers, as mature skin can sometimes lack hydration.